Saturday, 12 November 2016

Industrial Products & Goods Online INDIA SMEIndustry.com

fahad

Buy Industrial Products & Goods Online INDIA @ Best Discounted Price .


Industrial products and business supplies as an industry domain is extremely fragmented. The procurement of industrial tools and equipment is often a very big challenge as they are produced by big brands as well as small companies. Locating the suppliers of these products has been a longstanding problem for buyers and consumers in general.

SME

Why Shop at Smeindustry?
We are well aware of the negative impacts of delays in sourcing to the production process. Therefore, we assist you in a hassle free online buying process and create an easy way to handle the industrial equipment procurement process. Our aim is to help you make substantial savings in supplies, raise the efficiency level of your inventory management and help you to sustain your growth.
We offer leading brands, Presently smeindustry.com operates with all industrial product categories like Abrasives, Adhesives Sealants and Tape, Agriculture Garden & Landscaping, Automotive Maintenance and Accessories, Bearings, Cleaning, Construction & Civil Equipment, Dimension Measurement, Electrical, Fasteners, Furniture, Hospitality and Food Service, Hand Tools, Hydraulics, Industrial Automation, IT & Electronics, Lab Supplies, LED & Lights, Lubricants and Oils, Machinery, Machining Accessories, Material Handling and Packaging, Medical Supplies & Equipment, Office Supplies, Plastics, Plumbing, Pneumatics, Powder and Coatings, Power Tools, Pumps, Raw Material, Safety, Security, Solar, Tooling and Cutting, Welding etc. spanning its products with well-reputed brands.
Users can navigate seamlessly through our site and acquire information about any industrial product they are looking for. Our e-commerce platform offers buyers with a wide selection of products to choose from along with a hassle free buying experience. We have entered into tie-ups with leading logistics companies to ensure timely delivery of industrial suppliers to the doorstep of our customers, covering over 22,000 pin codes across India. All the products listed on our site are of genuine quality from authentic sources and are competitively priced. Therefore, to have a unique experience of buying industrial tools and products online, select from our assorted range of products.

Thursday, 21 January 2016

Why Use Respiratory Protection?

fahad
Why Use Respiratory Protection? (Respirator Employee 3)

Why Use Respiratory Protection? (Respirator Employee 1) Why Use Respiratory Protection? (Respirator Employee 2) Why Use Respiratory Protection? (Respirator Employee 4)
Companies and individuals should use respirators to protect health and control occupational diseases caused by breathing air contaminated with harmful dusts, fogs, fumes, mists, gases, smokes, sprays or vapors.
Safety mask respirators come in a wide range of types and sizes used by the military, private industry, and the public. Safety mask respirators range from cheaper, single-use, disposable masks to reusable models with replaceable cartridges and filters.

What kind of protection do respirators offer and how does it work?

Air-purifying respirators have an air-purifying filter, cartridge, or canister that removes specific air contaminants by passing ambient air through the air-purifying element. This provides an individual with safe, clean uncontaminated air to breathe in.

What Is A Respirator?

A respirator is a safety device to protect you from inhaling dangerous substances, such as chemicals and infectious particulates. There are several different types of respirators safety masks, as listed below:


Particulate Respirators/Dust Masks

N95 Disposable Particulate Respirator Mask  
Particulate Respirators/Dust Masks are the simplest, least expensive, and least protective of the respirator types available. These respirators only protect against particles. They do not protect against chemicals, gases, or vapors, and are intended only for low hazard levels. The commonly known "N-95" filtering facepiece respirator is one type of particulate respirator, often used in hospital to protect against infectious agents. Particulate respirators are "air-purifying respirators" because they clean particles out of the air as you breathe. Even if you can't see the particles, there may be too many in the air for this respirator to provide adequate protection.



Half Facepiece & Full Facepiece Gas Mask/Chemical Cartridge Respirators

North 54001 Series Full Facepiece Mask Respirator 
These chemical and gas masks are also known as "air-purifying respirators" because they filter or clean chemical gases and particles out of the air as you breathe. This respirator includes a full facepiece mask or or half facepiece mask, and a filter/cartridge (if the filter is in a metal shell it is called a "canister"). Straps secure the facepiece to the head. The cartridge may have a filter to remove particles (such as a biological weapon), charcoal (to remove certain chemicals), both, or other parts. When the user inhales, air is pulled through the filter.

Gas & chemical masks are effective only if used with the correct respirator cartridge or filter for a particular biological or chemical substance. Selecting the proper filter can be a complicated process. There are cartridges available that protect against more than one hazard, but there is no "all-in-one" filter that protects against all substances. You need to know what hazardous materials you will face in order to be certain you are choosing the right filters or cartridges.





Escape or Emergency Breathing Apparatus (EBA) Respirators

Survivair Escape Breathing Apparatus EBA  
Escape or Emergency Breathing Apparatus (EBA) Respirators are designed to be used only in an emergency, and only to escape from a dangerous area to a safe area. There are several escape respirators on the market. Many of them use a hood with a neck seal instead of a facepiece. They are typically designed for one-time use for a short period, typically 15 minutes to 1 hour. They may be available in a variety of sizes and will fit most adults. Individuals with small or very large neck sizes may not be able to use some escape hood designs-check the supplier product information before purchasing.



Powered Air-Purifying Respirator (PAPR)

MSA PAPR Respirator 
Powered air-purifying respirators use a fan to blow air through the filter to the user. They are easier to breathe through and they need a fully charged battery to work properly. They use the same filters as gas masks, so you need to know what the hazard is, and how much of it is in the air.



Self-Contained Breathing Apparatus (SCBA)

North SCBA Respirator  
Self-Contained Breathing Apparatus (SCBA) is the respirator commonly used by firefighters. These use their own air tank to supply clean air, so you don't need to worry about filters. They also protect against higher concentrations of dangerous chemicals. However, they are very heavy (30 pounds or more), and require very special training to use and to maintain them. Also, the air tanks typically last an hour or less depending upon their rating and how hard you are breathing.


How to Choose a Respirator or Dust Mask

Various types of respirators and dust masks
Respirators and dust masks come in several styles and types.
Home and garden projects frequently involve exposure to harmful chemicals and toxins – such as paint fumes, solvents, dust, adhesives, pesticides, and caustic cleaning products – not to mention the annual assault from pollen and allergens. In addition to proper ventilation, a respirator or dust mask will go a long way in protecting your lungs and health.
Respirators and dust masks aren’t all the same – there are different kinds to choose from, as well as a rating system for efficiency. At home and around the workshop, either a particulate filter (dust mask) or chemical cartridge respirator are likely to be all you’ll need.
N95 and R95 particulate masks
N95 and R95 particulate masks.

Particulate Filters

Particulate filters, including disposable dust masks, are the most common type of air-purifying device for home use. Particulate filters can be disposable or reusable with replaceable filters. They cover your nose and mouth and provide protection from airborne particles – including dust, mists, liquids, and some fumes – but not gases or vapors.
Particulate filters are rated by the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) according to what, and how much, they filter out. The rating have both a letter and number:
    Dust mask cutting grass
    Dust mask for cutting grass.
  • N: Not oil proof
  • R: Oil resistant (up to 8 hours)
  • P: Oil proof (beyond 8 hours)
  • Number: Particulate filters are rated 95, 97, or 100; which corresponds to the percentage of one-micrometer particles removed during clinical trials. A 95 rating means that the filter removes 95% of particles from the air. Filters rated 100 are considered High-Efficiency (HE or HEPA) filters.

What Type Particulate Filter Should I Buy?

The most common rating for disposable dust masks is N95, which will filter 95% of airborne particles that are not oil-based. N95 covers most woodshop dust, allergens, and airborne diseases. Filters for painting are often rated R95, or higher to handle oil-based particles.
If you’re looking for the highest level of protection in the widest variety of situations, go for P100, which will filter out 100% of both oil-based and non-oil-based particles.
When choosing a dust mask, consider:
  • Masks with an adjustable nosepiece offer a tighter fit.
  • Disposable masks with foam face seals will be more comfortable and a little more effective.
  • Masks with an exhalation valve will make breathing easier.
  • For highly toxic particles (such as asbestos), choose a non-disposable mask with sealing gaskets.
Half-mask, dual cartridge respirator
Half-mask, dual cartridge respirator.

Chemical Cartridge/Gas Mask Respirators

Chemical cartridge respirators contain special carbon filtering material that absorbs gases and vapors from the air. The replaceable cartridges are inserted in a mask that seals tightly around the edges to block out unfiltered air. Cartridge respirators may be half-mask (covering only your nose and mouth) or full-face (for protection against chemicals that irritate the skin).
Chemical cartridge filters include:
  • Chemical Cartridge: Block out vapors, but don’t have a separate prefilter to remove particles.
  • Dual Cartridge: Include a replaceable pre-filter for particulates, giving you both types of protection. The particulate pre-filter will be rated just like any other particulate filter (see above).
  • PAPR (Powered Air-Purifying Respirator): Have a battery-powered fan that blows air through the filter to make breathing easier.

What Type Chemical Cartridge Respirator Should I Buy?

To choose the right cartridge respirator, you need to know what toxins you’ll be facing. The cartridges are color-coded for specific purposes (such as organic vapors, ammonia, mercury, or acids). If you don’t know, or if your project it likely to contain small amounts of different substances, choose a dual-cartridge respirator with a multipurpose chemical cartridge and a P100-rated particulate filter.
Spraying insect spray
Wear a protective mask when spraying potentially harmful chemicals.

Guide to Respirators

The following chart will help you decide what kind of respirator you need:
Substance Type of Respirator Rating (if applicable)
Acid Gases Chemical cartridge
Allergens Particulate filter N95 or higher
Ammonia Chemical cartridge
Asbestos Particulate filter N100 or HE
Bacteria and Viruses Particulate filter N95 or higher
Bleach Particulate filter N95 or higher
Dust Particulate filter N95 or higher
Fibers (not asbestos) Particulate filter N95 or higher
Insulation Particulate filter N95 or higher
Lead Particulate filter N100 or HE
Mold Particulate filter N95 or higher
Organic vapor Chemical cartridge
Paint Particulate filter R95 or higher
Pesticides, Sprays Particulate filter R95 or higher
Pollen Particulate filter N95 or higher
Sanding Particulate filter N95 or higher
Welding Particulate filter N95 or higher

Respirator Safety Tips

  • Notice Smells: Change the filter if you notice any changes in smells or taste; or if your throat, nose, or lungs become irritated.
  • Solvents, adhesives, paints, and pesticides
    Wear a protective mask when using chemicals.
  • Breathe Easy: You should also change your respirator if it becomes clogged and hard to breathe through.
  • Keep Dry: Many respirators, especially disposable ones, become ineffective if they get wet.
  • Follow Instructions: Replace filters as instructed on the package.
  • Don’t Reuse: Disposable respirators aren’t meant to be used more than once.
  • Throw Away if Broken: Discard any respirator or filter canister that is dirty or damaged. Replace gas masks if rubber seals are damaged.

Wednesday, 20 January 2016

9 Uses for Acrylic Plastics That You Probably Didn’t Know About

fahad
Acrylic plastic, the material used in lighting diffusers has hundreds of thousands of uses. From everyday products, to retail environments, consumer electronics, cars, boats and aircrafts; this strong plastic is highly dependable.

Why Is Acrylic So Important?

An extremely versatile material, diffuser acrylic sheet is often chosen for its durability, impact, strength, color and pattern possibilities. You’ll find that acrylic sheet is almost everywhere.
Even things you might not expect like the “glass” on your cellphone and your car windows may also be acrylic, chosen for high impact strength and low weight. And because a mirrored finish can be applied to acrylic sheet, it can even be used for your side view and rear view mirrors.
The acrylic sheet has astounding transparency, almost like glass as mentioned.  If fluorescent lights light the room you’re in, the diffusing panel that hides the bulbs is probably made from acrylic. Because it can be formed to nearly any shape, acrylic is common in public places like stores and malls – the signs you read, point-of-purchase displays that grab your attention and the jewelry cases that protect watches and rings are all made using acrylic.

A Few Unconventional Uses For Acrylic Plastics

 











acrylic glass



Substitute for acrylic glass
 aeroplane canopy
Aeroplane canopies




  bomber plane
Military bomber planes



  aqarium
Aquariums




  helmet
Helmet visors




  bulletproof
Bulletproof panels




  shutterstock_83568304
Corneal replacement




  shutterstock_112324814
Water resistant paints





  shutterstock_146774654
Fiber optics

 

Acrylic Lenses

The durability and strength of acrylic plastic makes it the ideal material for fluorescent light lenses. It has a unique way of softening the harsh light emitted from fluorescent bulbs, by distributing the light over an even space. A few of the most common ways we use acrylic are in everyday spaces like grocery stores, schools and doctors offices. Learn more about acrylic light lenses and order your desired quantity online, right here. If we don’t have the size you need, we’ll make it!

Tuesday, 19 January 2016

Drillbits and Different types of It

fahad
To drill a satisfactory hole in any material, the correct type of drill bit must be used; it must be used correctly and be sharpened as appropriate.
Many jobs around the house require a hole of some kind to be drilled - whether it is putting up a shelf, building a cabinet or hanging a light fitting.
For basic requirements, a set of high-speed steel twist drills and some masonry bits will probably be sufficient for the average handyman. But for more sophisticated jobs/material, others bits will be required - perhaps larger, or designed for a specific material/purpose.
Good quality drill bits can be expensive, so take care of them, keep them in a case or box if possible, rather than allowing them to roll around loose in a toolbox where the cutting edges may be damaged.
Learning how to sharpen drill bits is cost effective, it better to keep a bit sharp by occasional sharpening rather than waiting until it becomes really blunt. A sharp bit cuts better with less effort whether used in a power or hand drill. A sharp bit will also give a cleaner hole.

Twist bits

hss twist drill
Usuallyreferred to as twist drills, twist bits are probably the most common drilling tools used by the handyman with either a hand or electric drill. The front edges cut the material and the spirals along the length remove the debris from the hole and tend to keep the bit straight.
They can be used on timber, metal, plastics and similar materials. Most twist bits are made from either:
  • 'high speed steel' (HSS), these are suitable for drilling most types of material, when drilling metal the HSS stands up to the high temperatures.
  • 'carbon steel', these bits are specially ground for drilling wood and should not be used for drilling metals, they tend to be more brittle, less flexible than HSS bits.
Twist bits are also available coated with Titanium nitride (TiN), these are easily identified by the gold like colour. This coating increases the hardness of the bit and adds a self-lubricating property. The coating is only really effective when metal is being drilled, it has little effect when working with other materials.
Twist drills are usually available in sizes 0.8-12 mm plus. They are designed for drilling relatively small holes, they sometimes tend to clog quickly especially when the wood is 'green' so when drilling deep holes (especially in hardwood) the bits should be withdrawn regularly to remove the waste.
Special care is required when using the smallest sizes since these bits are thin and brittle. Always hold the drill square to the work and apply only light pressure when drilling.
Sharpening - use a drill sharpener, a grindstone jig or an oilstone.
Titanium nitride bits cannot be sharpened without destroying the coating (although if the drill needs sharpening, the coating will probably have already been destroyed). Forming the correct angle at the tip is important for efficient cutting.

Screwdriver bit drills

Designed to fit in rechargeable screwdriver these bits have a hexagonal shank. They are ideal for drilling pilot holes but are limited by the low power of these type of screwdrivers and the limited size of small bits available.
Sharpening - as for twist drills.

Masonry bit

masonary drill bit
As the name suggests, these are designed for drilling into brick, block, stone, quarry tiles or concrete. The cutting tip is often made from tungsten carbide bonded to a spiralled steel shaft. Some masonry drills are described as 'durium tipped', this term refers to a highly durable silicon bronze alloy used instead of tungsten as the cutting point.
Masonry drills are usually used in a power drill; although they can be used with a lot of effort in a hand brace. Most masonry bits can be used with a hammer action power drill, but always check as the action is quite punishing on the bit and cheaper bits have been known to shatter when subjected to the pounding. Always use a slow rotational speed for drilling into harder materials to avoid overheating the tip, and frequently withdraw the bit to remove dust.
Long Masonry bits (300 to 400mm) are available for drilling through masonry walls.
Bit sizes range from 4 to 16mm.
Sharpening - use a drill sharpener or grindstone to sharpen the tungsten carbide tip.

Spur point bit

Spur point bit
Also known as a wood or dowel bit, they have a central point and two raised spurs that help keep the bit drilling straight. The bit cuts timber very fast when used in a power drill and leaves a clean sided hole. They are ideal for drilling holes for dowels as the sides of the holes are clean and parallel. Sizes range from 3 to 10mm. Spur point bits should only be used for drilling wood or some plastics.
Sharpening - a bit fiddly as it has to be done by hand. Sharpen the point and spurs with a fine file or edge of a fine grindstone; the angle between the point and spurs should be 90°.

Bullet Pilot Point

With their central point and two spurs, Bullet drills resemble spur point bits, but can be used in metal, wood and plastics. Unlike normal twist drills, the twisted flutes are ground away; making a truer, more accurate bit than normal twist bits. They cut a clean hole and cause little damage when they break through the back of the workpiece.
Bit sizes range from 1.5 to 13 mm.
Sharpening - cannot be carried out satisfactorily.

Countersink

Although not a true 'drill', it is used in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These bits tend to be designed for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results be will obtained if the countersink bit is used before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression.
Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they can be used by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking.
Sharpening: difficult, but can be done with a fine triangular file.

Countersink with clearance drill

These combination bits are quite clever, they drill the clearance hole and countersinks it all in one stroke. Can be used in a power drill or some routers. Different bits are required for different size of clearance holes and they are probably not cost effective unless a large number of a given hole size need to be drilled and countersunk.
Sharpening - difficult, due to shape of spur points.

Tile Bit

Tile bit
A bit for drilling ceramic tiles and glass, it has a ground tungsten carbide tip. They can be used with a hand drill, but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit ) should be used to keep the tip cool.
Ceramic tiles can also be drilled using a masonry bit if it is used at slow speed and without hammer action.
Sharpening - difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge can be made good using an oilstone.

Flat wood bit

Flat wood bit
Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber. These bits are used to drill fairly large holes and they give a flat bottomed hole (with a central point) so are ideal where the head of a screw/bolt needs to be recessed into the timber - always use this bit before drilling the clearance hole for the bolt.
The larger bits require a fairly powerful drill to bore deep holes. The bits cause a lot of splintering as they break out the back of the workpiece - using a sacrificial backing board will reduce this. Flat wood bits are not really suitable for enlarging an existing hole.
Sizes range between 8 and 32mm.
Sharpening - use a fine file, oilstone or grindstone.

Hole saw

Hole saw
Used for cutting large, fixed, diameter holes in wood or plastic. They will usually cut up to a depth of 18mm - deeper versions are available. Best used in a power drill at low speed as the blade saws it's way through the material.
Sharpening - could be done with a fine triangular file - as for an ordinary saw.

Combination hole saw

Like the Hole Saw above, these combination saws can cut large holes but they consist of a number of different sized round saw blades, usually ranging from about 25 to 62mm in diameter. Normally the blade are secures by a radial screw in the 'head', all blades other than the desired sized being removed before the screw is inserted to secure the required diameter blade. Best used in a power drill at low speed as the blade saws it's way through the material.
Sharpening - could be done with a fine triangular file and 'setter' as for an ordinary saw.

Forstner bit

Forstner bit
Used to form holes with a flat bottom, such as for kitchen cupboard hinges. Best used in a power drill held in a drill stand as there's little in the way of a central point. If used freehand, the positioning is difficult to control as there is no central pilot bit.
Sharpening - on an oilstone or with a fine file.

Wood Auger bit

wood auger
This is ideal when drilling large-diameter, deep holes in wood or thick man-made boards. Generally an Auger bit should only be used in a hand brace. The bit will cut a clean and deep, flat bottomed holes. The single spur cuts and defines the edge of the hole while the chisel-like cutting edge removes the waste within the previously cut circle. The threaded centre bites into the wood and pulls the bit into the timber. This 'pulling' action means that the bit is really unsuitable for use in a power drill.
Sharpening - use a fine file or oilstone to keep the spur and main cutting edges sharp.

Monday, 18 January 2016

Types of Bearings and What to Use Them For

fahad
Bearings1
Photo by Fan Jianhua/Shutterstock
When you think about what makes the modern world tick, you might think of electricity, cell phones, airplanes, or any number of modern conveniences. What we don’t normally think of, however, is the humble bearing that makes at least two out of three of those function.
Without bearings, the wheels on your car wouldn’t roll and the engine definitely would not work. Bearings reduce friction and keep components precisely in place. These little guys are so important that the Allies decided to strategically attack German bearing capabilities during World War II, at a very heavy loss. Hopefully the bearings in your projects will be used for more peaceful purposes.
Types of Loads
There are two main types of bearings: thrust bearings, which keep a round item spinning and in position while thrust is applied (a lazy susan, for example), and radial load bearings, which keep a spinning item in position in the radial direction (skateboard bearings, for example). A third class of bearings, the tapered roller bearings, are able to withstand force in either direction.
I suppose you could say that all three can withstand force in either direction, since a lazy susan doesn’t slide horizontally across a table and skateboard bearings don’t just slide off their axes. However, the main force resisted is decidedly in one direction.
Bearings2
Photo by Cosma/Shutterstock
In my experience, when bearings are mentioned most people immediately think of ball bearings. These are generally radial load bearings (skateboard), although they can be made as thrust bearings if needed. Roller bearings are more commonly used as thrust bearings, although it’s not uncommon to see them used in a radial loading application.
Types of Bearings
There are many specialized types of bearings. Here are a few you might see in your everyday life while making awesome stuff:
  • Normal” Radial Ball Bearing – What someone would normally think of as a bearing, with two concentric metal circles separated by little metal balls. These simple bearings can be found in everything from skateboards to drills.
  • Pillow Block Bearing – These bearings are a radial load bearing encased in a housing that can be attached to a surface parallel to the axis of rotation.
  • Cam Follower Bearing – A radial load bearing with a threaded rod attached to it. Generally meant to ride on a cam to cause linear motion, these could have other interesting applications.
  • Ball Bushing (Linear) Bearing – This type of bearing is used extensively to allow for the smooth motion of 3D printer and CNC router heads. Their purpose, unlike the other bearings here, is to restrict radial motion, while allowing smooth linear motion.
  • Automotive Wheel Bearing – These are generally taperer roller bearings, allowing for both radial and axial load to be overcome.
  • Thrust Bearings – These have many uses (especially automotive), but lazy susans and bar stools are what immediately come to mind as easy examples of their use. They could also be useful for anything else that needs to rotate smoothly, like a camera panning device.
Alternatives
If you’re able to use bearings in your design, that is really good. However, in most applications this does take planning and extra expense. If you’re in a hurry, or are short on space, you might instead consider using a low friction material in your design. I’ve used Teflon washers successfully in a project at home. If you have access to it, there are also many low-friction coatings available.
That being said, if you can afford (both in terms of patience and money) to use bearings, it is really great to see a well engineered project that uses bearings to keep things in line and moving smoothly.

Sunday, 17 January 2016

Safety at hand: Use the right glove for proper protection

fahad
The workplace can create many hazards for your hands, whether from chemicals, cuts or burns. No single glove can provide appropriate protection for every work situation, so it is important to assess the risk for each task and select a glove that provides specialized protection.
The following is a list of gloves and their appropriate application, according to the National Safety Council:
PPE - Many Gloves for Different Applications
 Different Types of Gloves for Different Applications

Which Glove is Best?
Glove Uses
Cotton Light duty material handling and  cleanup work
Leather Equipment handling, general construction, heavy cleanup, welding, moderately hot or cold material handling
Shock absorbing Operating rotary hammers and other vibrating equipment
Kevlar or Wire mesh Work with sheet metal, glass, or heavy cutting
These gloves Do Not provide puncture protection
Rubber, nitrile, neoprene, PVC, PVA and other synthetics Chemical gloves must be chosen for the specific chemical being used
Insulated Extreme high and low temperatures

How Chemicals Get Inside a glove
  • Permeation - Diffusion of a chemical through a material on a molecular basis
  • Penetration – Chemical enters  through zippers, punctures, or seams
  • Degradation – Chemical causes a change in the physical properties of the material

Table adapted from: Forsberg, K. & Mansdorf, S.Z. Quick Selection Guide to
Chemical Protective Clothing. 2nd Ed. Van Nostrand Reinhold, NY, NY


Glove Care
  • Inspect gloves before use for tears, excessive wear, and punctures
  • Store in a clean, dry location
  • Discard leather and cloth gloves if they become saturated with oil or other chemicals
  • Leak test chemical gloves by sealing the wrist and filling the glove with air
    -Use a clean plastic tube or low pressure air line – not your mouth!

Glove Sizing

With a ruler, start at index finger and measure the width of your hand in the knuckle area
Distance Size
2 to 2½” 6 X Small
2½ to 3”
7 Small
3 to 3½” 8 Medium
3½ to 4” 9 Large
4 to 4½” 10 X Large
4½ to 5” 11 XX Large

Hand Care
  • Avoid washing your hands with solvents, harsh soaps, or abrasives
  • Clean and bandage all cuts and abrasions
  • Immediately remove any imbedded foreign materials
  • Wash immediately after using any chemical – Even if you did not detect leakage
  • Pay attention to skin rashes—get an immediate medical evaluation
  • Wear cotton gloves under rubber gloves to reduce sweating


  • Cotton and fabric gloves: These can keep hands clean and protect against abrasions, but may not be strong enough to handle work with rough or sharp materials.
  • Coated fabric gloves: This type of glove can provide protection against some moderate concentrated chemicals. They can be used in laboratory work provided they are strong enough to protect against the specific chemical being handled.
  • Rubber, plastic or synthetic gloves: These types of glove can be used when cleaning or working with oils, solvents and other chemicals.
  • Leather gloves: These should be used when welding, as the leather can resist sparks and moderate heat. The risk of cuts and abrasions also can be minimized by wearing leather gloves.
  • Aluminized gloves: These gloves are recommended for welding, furnace and foundry work, as they provide reflective and insulating protection.
  • Kevlar gloves: These have a wide variety of industrial applications. They are cut- and abrasion-resistant and provide protection against both heat and cold.
  • Chemical/liquid-resistant gloves: Several types of gloves help protect against specific chemicals:
    • Butyl rubber gloves: nitric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid and peroxide
    • Natural latex/rubber gloves: water solutions or acids, alkalis, salts, and ketones
    • Neoprene gloves: hydraulic fluids, gasoline, alcohols and organic acids
    • Nitrile rubber gloves: chlorinated solvents